In conventional wood frame homes of force elements will not see. Only a few cubic meters of timber - all hidden under the skin. Even if you see something like oak or pine, most likely it will be an artificial wood imitation. Why close the natural wood dry plaster, and then again for interior use natural wood? An alternative to this approach - a beautiful wooden frame, which is able to combine into a whole aesthetic, structural integrity and practicality.
What you need to understand and do to vigorously take up the construction of a wooden frame?
Someone working at first may seem daunting, but to cope with it and the layman. Enough to imagine that the timber frame - a large closet, and you certainly do the job. Of course, provided that you will use techniques that allow split the work into stages.
It all starts with lumber
Although the framework should be designed prior to the purchase of lumber, it is better to first find out what you have. And it needs to carry out preliminary work: to find a suitable trade organization or a sawmill, to solve problems of delivery and so on.
For small buildings such as "pergola" is sometimes easier to buy planed timber. However, please note that the wood drying chamber - not the ideal material for the job. Better use of air-dried lumber. Then you'll handle them in vivo, which prevents warping of parts.
On any surface sawmill lumber obtained quite rough. And while most companies are equipped with wood planers, suitable equipment for handling large and heavy items in small shops, usually not. Therefore often have to buy roughly processed timber, and then bring their hand or power tools. Work time-consuming, but if you're going to vovodit house in which design elements will be opened in the interior, high quality - first and foremost. Even a large frame should not look rough. The attractiveness of traditional wooden frame and is in contrast to large parts with joints made at the level of furniture.
As for wood, then the combination of strength, minimal shrinkage and a relatively small proportion of carcasses is ideal for pine, which is easily treatable. And in terms of effort - two grown men can lift and carry virtually any structural element of the pine, even if it is from not too dry material. If you are working alone, the details can roll over on the floor using clips from scraps of plastic pipes of 100 mm.
Design framework
Although the construction of a skeleton in many ways reminiscent of the increased production of the cabinet, something that should be taken into account. To get a complete building construction, we must consider it carefully, calculate loads, pick-section materials, decide on ways to connect elements. And here there are many situations when you need to find compromises. Therefore, before proceeding to the design of your particular frame, it is reasonable well acquainted with the special literature devoted to the construction of wooden buildings.
When you are more familiar with spreadsheets cross beams for different spans and loading diagrams, make sure that the strength of the frame depends not only on the properties of concrete timber, but also the length of the spans, the ways to connect components and much more.
At the design stage and have to think about whether you build or break the traditional frame construction to the assembly units. For example, if you do not have assistants, it is better to design a frame divided into modules - if you do not have to lift the massive assembly.
The main type of connection to the frame structures - mortise and tenon. It is necessary to first learn precisely this connection. You can start with a groove, and with the spike, though still better fit under the tongue already selected groove.
Along an angled pencil to mark the boundary groove, then an electric hand drill, drill most of the unwanted wood. In the raw wood is better to make cork bits, as they are cut thin shavings and sawdust are not issued, increasing the resistance when drilling. In addition, cork bits easy to cut overlapping holes, thus minimizing the timber, which should cut down the chisel. Although in a pinch you can drill out the grooves and simple Perov drills.
If no drill depth stop, wrap shank drill tape, bandage from which you can easily control the depth of drilling. The depth of the grooves must not exceed the height of its constituent spikes about 1.5 mm.
Convert a series of holes in the groove can, cutting excess material well-sharpened chisel. First, trim the ends of the fiber mechanical groove - this will facilitate trimming the side walls. Then pull up the wood for 5-6 mm at the ends of the slots, then at 5-6 mm on the sides and then passes the horizontal cut off the excess wood. Proceed as before until you reach the bottom of the drilled holes.
When cut down the slot, measure its length and width and these dimensions determine the size of the spike. Mark its outline, and then just Saw a shoulder, followed by (in order to facilitate removal of excess wood) nadrezhte its several passages tool.
When erecting a wooden frame to be clear about why building a house. If it is - a temporary shelter, the ceiling height is not necessarily to do too much. But in any case must be understood that the house should be not only convenient but also beautiful.
Basic tools
For successful work on the construction of timber frame is necessary, first of all, to get a good tool. The bit width of 50 mm. This tool is long, broad blade that allows you to cut down the deep grooves, and on a sound and a long handle, which can be convenient clasp his hand, you can apply a full-fledged, powerful strokes.
Tightening and lifting slings. In the final fitting and drilling holes for dowels, they will help pull off tight connection.
Electric planer and a very sharp hand. Elektrorubanok with a knife 80 mm (preferably 150 mm) will accelerate work on the boards. Unfortunately, after any of them, the surface is poor and therefore the final passages better to do well regulated manual plane.
An electric drill with a 12-mm rounds and drills. This is the primary tool for selecting extra wood from the grooves.
Percussion instruments. Need Mallet weighing 700-900 g to work with a large chisel and 4,5-5 kg wooden hammer, which helps connect the parts during final assembly.
Circular Saw. The more powerful is this tool better. Drive with carbide teeth to quickly and accurately make cross gash required for sawing boards in length, cutting the thorns and figural processing ends.
Most cross-hacksaw. This tool will need to fit the locks. Expelling the saw through the assembled, but too loose connection can provide a tighter fit. In addition, hacksaw needed in other cases, eg to exit a gash high beams when the electric saw is not able to propylene through them.
Measuring and layout tools. This is a great carpenter's square, tape measure, 5 m long and possibly measuring tape length of 30 m. In addition, you will need a pencil and scriber.
Tools to "decorate" the boards. This group of tools includes a variety of boats and the router with a set of cutters. Even a large frame of timber can be decorated with beveled, rounded, and other non-functional, but important details.
Sealing and insulation. Important as the frame fits into the concept of structure. Thus, sandwich panels with a carrier outer shell is made in accordance with the project of individual buildings. These panels represent the insulating core (foam 150 mm thick), which is lined with dry plaster on the inside, and fiberboard to be oriented in one direction, fiber - from the outside. These assemblies are customized at the place at the site and are fastened to long screws with square heads. Joints sealed with foam.
However, in order to save homeowners and builders are increasingly working on another scheme. Usually they sheathe the outside frame of plywood between the uprights lay the insulation layer of fiberglass and then sheathe it all the boards.
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