Thus, in the horticultural associations provide protection only to quarters. Boundaries within the area between adjacent areas can be separated by hedges in the form of short-haired brush, which is desirable to maintain a height of not more than 1 m in order not to obscure the plot. In some cases, the border area may be ditch, water pipe or slope at the location of the site on a slope.
Fencing - an integral part of the slum area, so he should be given the same attention as all the elements of the garden. Careless, nemasshtabnoe execution hedge can create a bad impression on the whole of the site.
Fencing the garden site must meet the following requirements:
denote the boundary of the site under the draft plan horticultural staff;
not obscure the plot, especially when near the site of sun-cultures;
not to interfere with aeration station;
be aesthetic, well in harmony with the buildings and improvements.
Type fencing team recommends that the Council should see to it that it was consistent throughout the site, or differed only slightly. To do this we must first stand uniformity in the material of the walls and the height of the fence.
Fencing the garden plots can be made of fence, iron mesh, dense hedges or from an iron grid in combination with a hedge.
Unlike the fence in the areas of individual building fences garden plots must differ easily, so do not do the base foundation of fencing, and it suffices to establish the pillars, and supporting framework in the form came down, prozhilin, wire frames, etc.
Poles - the main supporting element fence, so the device manufacturer and they require special care. To increase the longevity of the bottom of the column is treated - burned with a blowtorch, were coated with hot bitumen or tar, wrapped in several layers of plastic film, roofing, roofing material, or treated in an antiseptic. The simplest and most affordable solution of boric acid and soda at a ratio of 1:3. The solution may be 5% - or 10%, ie, 10 liters of solution to 250 g of boric acid and 750 g of soda. The solution was the cheapest of all the antiseptics and effective enough. Pillars are made as of metal or asbestos cement pipes, which is typical for non-forested areas. Inner cavity is desirable to fill pipes with cement mortar with a filler. You can close the upper end cap in the form of well-matched cans or make a wooden lugs magnitude larger diameter pipe to prevent ingress of water inside the pipe, which is freezing at low temperatures may lead to the destruction of the pillars.
Took to his bed to round poles are fixed with metal brackets, straps or clamps. Staples are made of reinforced iron with a diameter of 10-12 mm and such a size that was a slug them with a gap of 2-3 mm. Clamps attach to posts with nuts or welded.
Yokes are made of flat steel 2-3 mm thick and pull together their bolts, fixing slug. In the asbestos cement pipes, pillars to attach the brackets, made of sheet steel of thickness 5-6 mm. To do this, the posts drill or cut-through slot, insert them into pre-made brackets and fill the inner cavity of the concrete.
Currently, widespread, especially in southern areas, concrete pillars prefabricated. They are easy to perform and directly on the site. The most economical for such a column triangular shape. Decking made from planks, preferably to several posts, given the long-term exposure of concrete to cure. Finished formwork sheathe the inside with sheet iron. Knit frame of reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6-8 mm and lay the formwork, then pour the concrete.
Layout during the installation the pillars should be done through the cord and plumb. The distance between the pillars of 2-3 m. Pillars bury in the ground at 50-80 cm with a mandatory butirovkoy brick or gravel. The upper part of the rubble at the base is desirable to consolidate the mortar or concrete screed.
For a device of small diameter columns in soft soils can be used fishing ice screws, and the depth of the wells should be increased to 70-90 cm in some cases, the device gate and entrance gates to the site can be lined with two columns of brick. Foundations for them carry out rubble with binding mortar screed. Poles are put in a half a brick with a projecting 6 cm below the cap and cornice at the top, which is trowel grout-filled, putting it in a hip roof. To extend the life of its desirable paint waterproof paint. For the strength of the pillars inside lay rebar and pour slurry with the filler. When laying'll need to leave came down to the sinuses, as well as insert, metal bracket for mounting a gate or wicket. On clay and loamy soils deepening the foundations for the brick pillars must be at least 60-80, and on the sand - 40-60 cm
Wooden fences are the most common, although very labor intensive and relatively short-lived (10-16 years). When constructing a wooden fence blocks should be aware that planed parts are more durable, cost-effective.
Fell ill, or prozhiliny, are bearing element wooden fence. They are made from timbers section 50X80 mm or peeled poles diameter of 6-8 cm of any length. Splice them not necessarily for the posts, but can be anywhere on the run, eliminating overlap joints at the top and bottom slug. Spliced came down across the width or height vpoldereva oblique prirubom. The easiest way - lining in the form of a length of 35-40 cm boards nailed to the slug.
In cross-nest poles came down fix wooden wedges, placing them only in height, and if they score in width, the column may be destroyed. Waging came down in the bracket cement pillars can be the simplest way: the middle of the bracket with a hammer it bends and is pressed into the wood. If it can not be a deflection, then sawed the handle in the middle of a hacksaw, bend the ends of a hammer and pressed into slug.
As the sheathing of wooden fence pickets often use - plank and boards of various sections in length from 0,6 to 1,5 m. Its dial on the cord and the pattern. Strong pull on the cord with two straps spaced 3-5 m in height of the upper end of the fence. A template is a cross-piece stand which is made of the board, equal to the width of the gap in the fence, cross - a thin strip of length 40-50 cm, nailed to the rack is strictly at right angles. This template allows you to quickly and easily fill crates of the fence, using only the power cord for control.
There are many different designs obreshetok of the fence, but deserve the attention of only those that increase the longevity of the wooden fence. The most common upper ends of the fence with a cut on the "conditions" or "roof" for the rolling water. However, they also have disadvantage - bevel cut increases the area of end, which leads to an increase in the wetting of wood along the grain. More effective way to protect the fence - application of longitudinal strips of facing flat or slightly sloping.
Most depreciable place the wooden crates - the lower frontal part of the fence, which is located in close proximity to the ground and exposed to intense rotting. Therefore it is expedient to apply the device between the pillars plinth of bricks, concrete or natural stone.
During the construction of wooden fences should strive to use cheap local materials - podtovarnik, poles, firewood, etc. A very common way fences - fences of twigs or branches of the vine, willow and other trees, including those that grow in the garden of and are subject to pruning. Given that the fence of a garden site is arranged up to 1 m, it is possible to procure such pruning on his garden plot. Frame Pletneva fence made of poles and three slug.
Good looks from podtovarnika fence or poles of the same length contained in the paired columns. In the same way you can make abstraction of the croaker, podtovarnik dispersed into two equal halves. The durability of such a fence is increased by using timber, stripped of bark.
Decorative low fences can be made of a low fence of driven into the ground or dug into the logs of a diameter of 120 - 150 mm, or as a grid of oblique set of birch tree-length with a diameter of 25-40 mm. The lower end of the fence sharpen and pierce into the ground at an angle of 60 °, and then attached to a slug.
The most durable chain link fence with metal posts. It performs its functions well, and at the same time obscures the site. Its supporting structure form a metal poles that are installed on a concrete base with a strained between the two rows of steel wire with a diameter of 3-6 mm. They can come from pipes with a diameter of 40-60 mm, steel profile section 40X40X5 mm or over a section of 50X50X5 mm. Private post satisfied with two holes 5-8 mm for the passage of the carrier wire. Corner posts to put the strut, as it accounts for all the pulling force. It is necessary to make the four holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm for one side of the fence, and perpendicular to them four more holes for the other side. They inserted four hook - two for stretching the carrier wire and mesh.
Installation of poles. After marking the boundaries of collective quarters and garden areas are secured using pegs, do step breakdown of the ordinary and the corner posts with a distance of 3,5-3,8 m. The device only wicket to be preferred distance of 3,8 m as the width of portion 20 m on it will be 5 flown by 3,8 m and one - in the 1 m below the gate. When the device arrival to the area of machine can be taken a step 3.5 m, which will also give five spans and a device gate width of 2.5 m. The gate can be combined with a wicket. Potholes the size of 30X30 cm and a depth of not less than 50 cm are digging under the ordinary and corner posts. Boundary pillars sites can be installed through gardening association, and the space between the pillars, each owner of the plot fenced in accordance with their capabilities and availability of the material, observing, for example, the overall height of the fence. Such a solution would avoid monotony in addressing common barriers and give some individuality to each site.
Between the main pillars, placed at the boundaries of sites, pull a thin wire and it set the pillars of the ordinary so that the direction coincided drilled holes in them. Before concreting poles desirable to cover the primer, after separating them from rust with a wire brush. Established posts a week kept the concrete to harden, then pull the carrier wire and mesh.
Tensioning wire mesh is best done alone. One gently unwind wire coil, making sure that it is not twisted and the other for the free end extends through the openings of its rank and file posts. When he reached the corner pillar, carrying wire loop bend, casting a hook on the end of the pliers and twist up to 10 turns. Then pull it as much as possible and attach the hook angle column.
In the same way and pull the second wire.
Wire mesh producing a width of 150 cm in bundles of 12 - 25 m with a cell 50X50 mm or less, which can be used in accordance with the height or cut in half to 15 mm, twisting pliers incision and put them in the bottom of the fence. If the grid is galvanized, painted it in 2-3 years, and non-galvanized - immediately. Unwind, cut the mesh on the ground and spliced with a soft wire. Then, in one end of the grid pass through a piece of reinforcing wire 10 mm in diameter and hang on the hook all four pillars. Gradually rising, the net temporarily attach the soft wire to the top of the carrier wire between ordinary posts. Approximately 1 m from the final column in the grid to insert the metal pin, thereby pulling the net. Then she tied a thin galvanized wire to two wires carrying every 30-40 cm thus satisfied the fence of wire mesh.
A good fence can be made of metal, industrial waste products sold in stores like "Sheber" Alma-Ata, where they sell different materials that can be successfully applied in a cottage construction. These metallic wastes are of different width and length, laced with different geometric shapes, which allows you to make a different track fence. This fence can be filled with the same space between the pillars with the installation of intermediate supports of different materials, including wooden sticks, which can be nailed down with nails, metal belt with a pattern. To increase the durability of these fences should be painted with paint for metal surfaces.
For the garden plots should find wide application of hedge fence, in combination, for example, with the grid fencing, from sheet metal wastes, several rows of barbed wire strung between the intermediate posts. Preference in this case should be given a two-row hedges when the hedge are planted with one or the other side of the fence. With the growth of shrubs shaped into various geometric shapes that meets the conditions of conservation of the snow cover on the site.
Solid fences, suitable for individual areas of houses in the village, not suitable for gardens because they look nemasshtabno in size garden shed and all the improvements.
Hedges suit of shrubs and trees
It should be remembered that in the first year of planting the garden and a protective hedge it should be protected from damage. To do this, you can arrange Zherdev fence, as well as use other available means of fencing: the remnants of the wire, trim parts and fittings. If this temporary fence is placed in the middle of the hedge, after the last gather momentum, a temporary fence could be removed or left in the middle.
Hedges lays follows. Along the boundary of the site dig the groove depth of 40-50 cm and a width of 35-40 cm in these grooves shrubs planted seedlings or cuttings, which subsequently form a hedge. On the outer side of the site is better to make dvuhryadovuyu landing with a distance of 20-25 cm in the row. Between rows can be done for furrow irrigation by which water can pass as a plot, and on the other. The distances between the rows increases.
After planting, the plants need watered and pruned to a height of 40-50 cm Such pruning promotes the best survival rate of shrubs and causes the formation of the bottom of the seedlings of lateral branches, which create a dense hedge. Growing up in the future and to the side shoots are pruned each year to 25-30 cm higher than the previous year. If established plants are distinguished by strong growth, the trimming can be done several times over the summer. When planting a hedge in a number of plants as they grow can be twisted and upper cut on the same level. Thus it is possible to obtain a sufficiently strong hedge.
When you create hedges need to pay attention to repair and planting seedlings instead of fallen plants. This will create a sufficiently strong fence. Device such fences must be organized, but in this case, it can give an aesthetic effect. Moreover, the device allows the hedge to reduce the cost of their construction.
The height of the outer fence is sufficient to maintain at 1.0 - 1.20 m. It can be maintained at the same level or have different shapes, providing decorative appearance.
Gates - the main part of the front side of the fence, organically connected with it. Thus, if the fence is made of wood, it is desirable that both the gate or gates were made of wood. In the presence of the same on the windows of the house iron gratings to give the whole ensemble of architectural perfection gate is desirable to perform well in iron, while respecting the style grids.
There are many designs gates and wickets from a variety of materials, but they must be sufficiently strong and durable. Gate in the garden of satisfied only if the race car provided on the site. The width of the gate with regard to the safety of arrival and departure can be from 2,0 to 2,40 m and the height of the fence should be at the level of total fencing or slightly above, emphasizing the entrance to the site. With a width of 2,20 m at the site can not arrange a separate gate and use one side of the gate.
Arrange the gates, usually two fold. Each door is a wooden or metal frame.
No comments:
Post a Comment